Sunday, July 29, 2018
Frequently Asked Questions about Progression� and Finger Strength Training I
Frequently Asked Questions about Progression� and Finger Strength Training I
version en espa�ol
To make the most of these boards, the user must play an active role and invest lots of time and effort:
-To understand and master the supplied documentation
-To be persistent and systematic about the practice of the methodology that is offered along witn the fingerboard
These boards wont work without your involvement. You are part of your own process of improvementThis no doubt will be a worthwhile task for some, when they reach their expected goals or get to manage and enjoy their gains.
They will be proud of their efforts and determination, and of being responsible for their own achievments.
For others, though, this will be an inconvenience that they will have to weigh up when deciding wether to purchase or not this product. Work and daily chores are tiring enough, to go and feel like "working" in your free time... so think about it carefully.
While you make up your mind, and given that a nice way of learning is, once you master the basics, try to adapt them to your personal needs with the help of someone who can oversee the process and solve the doubts, you can read this entry. In it I have tried to compile some of the most frequent questions that are arising on the topic of Progression and training on it.
If you come up with more questions you can add it as a comment and we will do our best to answer them so you learn more about using this fingerboard.
Question about training load evolution and periodization.
september the 13th, 2011
By Carlos
Hi Eva,
I have a question regarding the training program that comes with Progression: In the method for Phase 1, you say that the first week you have to perform 2 sets of dead hangs on a small edge.
If, as is the case, I would rather begin doing a bit more, would there be a problem? am I doing it right?
I have started doing 3 sets of dead hangs on the 22 mm edge without added weight instead of the 2 you recommend for Phase 1. I would like you to tell me whether this is correct or not.
Thank you.
Answer:
Hi Carlos,
What you have decided to do with your training periodization is somethin a lot of people tells me, or even ask for my "permission" to do in the first weeks they begin training with me... in part because they are highly motivated; in part because the are convinced that they can do "a lot more" than they are told to.
This is an example of the so called "Lake Wobegon effect"; according to it, 9 out of 10 people believe they are 1 out of 10 :). That is, they overrate themselves and think they are above average.
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| Alberto Montt:En dosis diarias |
The planning guidelines that I propose in the guide have been designed attending to something that is really important and a lot of people ignores:
-It is desirable to use the easiest possible intensity, volume, rest periods and method that are enough to yield gains.
-It is more effective to slowly increase the difficulty of methods and intensity level than to progress by leaps or very fast, because the long term progress will be greater and it will be safer when it comes to avoiding injuries.
So, even if 2 sets seem too few, its in your interest to go slowly so that you can adapt to the exercise, the method and the sensations. Keep in mind that this first Phase has the goal of preparing you for the "proper" training that comes after.
Question about the advisability of training with Progression for beginners.
august the 29, 2011
By Agust�n
Hi Eva,
I wanted yo ask you about Progression. I am currently following a training plan and I wonder if the fingerboard had a place in it.
I have been climbing for 8 months now, 3 of them training systematically.
I can onsight 6c+ and have redpointed 7a on the second try.
Some friends tell me that with my current level I dont need to use a fingerboard, but others disagree... so I need to ask you.
Thank you very much.
Answer:
Hi Agust�n,
I dont recommend to start training with this board to those who have been climbing and/or training regularly less than 2 years. And you say yo have been for only 8 months...
The reason is that muscles take short time to adapt, in the order of weeks of months.
But other tissues like tendons, capsules, cartilages and ligaments get the needed adaptations (like increased thickness and tensile strength) only after years of systematic and progressive practice. Roughly 2 years is the minimum.
So it is the duration of systematic practice along -possibly- with genetic factors, and not the climbing grade, what enables us to believe that those adaptations have already taken place.
-It is desirable to use the easiest possible intensity, volume, rest periods and method that are enough to yield gains.
-It is more effective to slowly increase the difficulty of methods and intensity level than to progress by leaps or very fast, because the long term progress will be greater and it will be safer when it comes to avoiding injuries.
So, even if 2 sets seem too few, its in your interest to go slowly so that you can adapt to the exercise, the method and the sensations. Keep in mind that this first Phase has the goal of preparing you for the "proper" training that comes after.
Question about the advisability of training with Progression for beginners.
august the 29, 2011
By Agust�n
Hi Eva,
I wanted yo ask you about Progression. I am currently following a training plan and I wonder if the fingerboard had a place in it.
I have been climbing for 8 months now, 3 of them training systematically.
I can onsight 6c+ and have redpointed 7a on the second try.
Some friends tell me that with my current level I dont need to use a fingerboard, but others disagree... so I need to ask you.
Thank you very much.
Answer:
Hi Agust�n,
I dont recommend to start training with this board to those who have been climbing and/or training regularly less than 2 years. And you say yo have been for only 8 months...
The reason is that muscles take short time to adapt, in the order of weeks of months.
But other tissues like tendons, capsules, cartilages and ligaments get the needed adaptations (like increased thickness and tensile strength) only after years of systematic and progressive practice. Roughly 2 years is the minimum.
So it is the duration of systematic practice along -possibly- with genetic factors, and not the climbing grade, what enables us to believe that those adaptations have already taken place.
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| Half-crimp grip |
 |
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| Damage that the tendon can sustain due to overload or incomplete adaptation to load. Source: www.kinescalade.com |
So, for the time being focus on doing a lot of rock climbing and train judiciously, using the easiest methods while gradually increasing volume, intensity and specificity.
With time, if you still are into this and have the drive to keep evolving, then purchase a board and enjoy it.
Have luck sending those routes!
Question about mixing in the same microcycle fingerboard training and rock bouldering.
October the 3rd, 2011
By Carlo:
Hi there and congratulations for your priceless work.
My question: how do you combine training on Progression and going to the crag to do some bouldering?
If you need to rest for 48 h after training on Progression:
-When is it most effective to train so it WORKS, going out bouldering the day before or the day after the dead hangs?
-If I just go bouldering and use the fingerboard (no gym), would it be correct to do dead hangs twice a week?
-Would it be possible to fit 3 days of outdoor bouldering or would it be better to just climb 2 days to meet the required resting periods?
With time, if you still are into this and have the drive to keep evolving, then purchase a board and enjoy it.
Have luck sending those routes!
Question about mixing in the same microcycle fingerboard training and rock bouldering.
October the 3rd, 2011
By Carlo:
Hi there and congratulations for your priceless work.
My question: how do you combine training on Progression and going to the crag to do some bouldering?
If you need to rest for 48 h after training on Progression:
-When is it most effective to train so it WORKS, going out bouldering the day before or the day after the dead hangs?
-If I just go bouldering and use the fingerboard (no gym), would it be correct to do dead hangs twice a week?
-Would it be possible to fit 3 days of outdoor bouldering or would it be better to just climb 2 days to meet the required resting periods?
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| Pavi Casas - Belmez Face Team - Photo: Guntram Jorg - Source: www.baboonmaster.com |
My Answer:
Thank you for your compliments!
Regarding your question, hmmm... its really interesting, because it allows us to discuss an important physiological effect when preparing a training plan, and the short term effects of ONE training session. When the energy sources have been replenished and the structures involved in the session have recovered... or even better have surpassed their initial level thanks to the effects of supercompensation (graph B of the figure below).
It also gives us an opportunity to review the mid- and long-term effects of the sum of several training sessions, which are even more interesting and so we will seek them.
Why?
As you can see on graph B of the figure above, the absolute gains of a series of sessions will be greater than those of one session, because they are the sum of several chained supercompensations, and whats more important, they will last longer.
In the PROGRESSION Training Guidelines there is the recommendation of a 48-72 hour rest period between finger maximum strength sessions. This is to ensure an adequate recovery.
And, in many cases, this will lead to a small supercompensation that will improve the quality of your next session. That is, you will be able to hang from a smaller edge or to add a bit more weight using the 20 mm edge.
So back to your original questions:
1- Is it better to go out bouldering the day before training?
To conclude, if in your microcycle or training week your as so lucky as to being able to both train and climb on rock, you can try to do it this way:
Question about choosing a board model.
October the 11th, 2011
By Kur:
Hi Eva, Im enjoying your blog a lot.
Can you give me some advice?
I wanted to try Progression, but from what Ive read perhaps its not for me: I can hang for more than 10 seconds from a 10 mm edge (around 13, open crimp), and can climb 7B boulders fairly quickly.
Maybe I can train on Progression, and by using added weight it will still be a good match for me in the future, or perhaps I should go directly with Transgression.
What do you think?
My answer:
Thank you, Kur!
And thank you for your question. Im sure there are a lot of people in a similar situation.
Your 10 mm edge time comes a little short of the time I defined as minimum to choose Transgression, the higher level board, which is 15. So with a bit of training your profile would match this boards. Another thing is if you are systematic training and climbing.
Bouldering grade is not as representative as a specific dead hang test. What is your time for 20 mm?
For your case, my proposal is the following: Do you have access to any gyms that already have the board?
In that case choose one and train on it. Do the two first phases of the training guidelines (2 cycles of 4 and 8 weeks) and check your progress. If after those phases you are able to meet the 15 mark on 10 mm and the 40 one on 20 mm... congratulations, you can get the Transgression fingerboard.
Thank you for your compliments!
Regarding your question, hmmm... its really interesting, because it allows us to discuss an important physiological effect when preparing a training plan, and the short term effects of ONE training session. When the energy sources have been replenished and the structures involved in the session have recovered... or even better have surpassed their initial level thanks to the effects of supercompensation (graph B of the figure below).
 |
| Zatsiorsky, V., & Kraemer, W.J. (2006). Science and practice of strength training. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics. |
Why?
As you can see on graph B of the figure above, the absolute gains of a series of sessions will be greater than those of one session, because they are the sum of several chained supercompensations, and whats more important, they will last longer.
In the PROGRESSION Training Guidelines there is the recommendation of a 48-72 hour rest period between finger maximum strength sessions. This is to ensure an adequate recovery.
And, in many cases, this will lead to a small supercompensation that will improve the quality of your next session. That is, you will be able to hang from a smaller edge or to add a bit more weight using the 20 mm edge.
So back to your original questions:
1- Is it better to go out bouldering the day before training?
- If you did not exceeded yourself at the crag you will be able to do a goog training, because it is fundamental to be as fresh as possible when training maximum strength.
- If you had a really hard climbing day, the next day you wont be able to cross the intensity threshold that is needed to improve maximum strength.
- That is more advisable.
To conclude, if in your microcycle or training week your as so lucky as to being able to both train and climb on rock, you can try to do it this way:
- Saturday, Sunday and Wednesday: Rock Bouldering
- Monday and Thursday: rest
- Tuesday and Friday: fingerboard training
- If you feel like doing the most effective finger training you will have to reduce the load in one of the three climbing days, or climb for two days only.
- If, by the contrary, you want to send your project, delay the board session so you can get to the crag fully rested.
You cant sow and reap the fruits at the same time.Thank you for your trust on me.
Question about choosing a board model.
October the 11th, 2011
By Kur:
Hi Eva, Im enjoying your blog a lot.
Can you give me some advice?
I wanted to try Progression, but from what Ive read perhaps its not for me: I can hang for more than 10 seconds from a 10 mm edge (around 13, open crimp), and can climb 7B boulders fairly quickly.
Maybe I can train on Progression, and by using added weight it will still be a good match for me in the future, or perhaps I should go directly with Transgression.
What do you think?
My answer:
Thank you, Kur!
And thank you for your question. Im sure there are a lot of people in a similar situation.
Your 10 mm edge time comes a little short of the time I defined as minimum to choose Transgression, the higher level board, which is 15. So with a bit of training your profile would match this boards. Another thing is if you are systematic training and climbing.
Bouldering grade is not as representative as a specific dead hang test. What is your time for 20 mm?
For your case, my proposal is the following: Do you have access to any gyms that already have the board?
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| Have your gym any PROGRESSION yet? Send me the logo or name and Ill put it on this photo |
Well... anything else?
Then wait for future blog entries where we will try to clear up things a bit further.
SOON:
-Frequently Asked Questions about Progression and Finger Strength Training (II)
-Frequently Asked Questions about Progression and Finger Strength Training (III)
-Transgression, a Fingerboard for High Level Climbers
-Dead Hang training on Small Edges: Transgressions 6 mm edge
